The Escape Of The Dodo

The dodo (Raphus cucullatus) was a flightless bird endemic to the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius. It stood about a meter tall, weighing about 20 kilograms. The dodo lost the power of flight because food was abundant and mammalian predators were absent on Mauritius.

(Source: Wikipedia)

My Dodo Days from Vagabond on Vimeo.

After years of online poker,
it's time for something different...

The Fishy Trail - Facebook - Twitter - Flickr

The Fishy Trail Mission Statement

I jumped through all the right loops. I ran in the rat race long enough. My mind's made up. Three more months on the grind. Then I'll take the money and run:

The hard part is over; the decision has been made. All I need is one final confirmation from the Government Office for Employment. At the day job, all documents are signed and approved. In 3 months time I'm free to go. Nothing holds me back. Preparation can finally start. The dream came true. I'm a happy man. The long road ahead is all mine. (Yeah!) It's about time. No more compromises. I'll do as I please. I'll go where I want. Back to the East, of course. Same same but *seriously* different. Done with dope, done with troublesome love affairs. Intrepid traveling on my own terms, like a vagabond in the distance...

(from "Green Light")

Follow The Fishy Trail on Twitter, like the trail on Facebook or add The Fishy Trail to your favorites for more adventure and less poker. It's just a different kind of gamble, after all.

The Blissful Poker Tournament

A peculiar series of events have led me to the small, sleepy town of Kampot in Southern Cambodia....

I've been here a couple of days now, staying in the Blissful Guesthouse. It's been a long time ago since I had anything to do with poker. But it turns out there's a weekly $5 buy-in no-limit hold'em poker tournament in this very guesthouse. Of course, I couldn't let this opportunity pass. One more night of pokers!

Unsurprisingly, it was a small event. 12 people showed up. Top three gets the money. $50 for first. Doesn't sound much but, considering the current state of my financial affairs, that's at least two days of living expenses here in Kampot.

We got divided in two six-max tables. The blind structure was alright, rather slow even. But that's probably a smart move from the bar owner. There's no rake so longer blind levels sell more drinks. That's good for everyone.
The tournament itself was uneventful (for me, at least). Your typical low buy-in no-fold'em game. Most players hardly knew the rules. The first few rounds where pretty chaotic. People acting out of turn, splashing the pot, showing cards and doing all kinds of goofy things. An older dude bought a round of beers for the table. A nice gentleman, indeed! If I don't make it to the money, well, at least it got a beer for my 5 bucks. The game went on, I managed to get a little bit of value with a top pair hand but for the most part I played pretty tight. I figured only solid hands would do. Generally the whole table saw the flop and everyone seemed to love to min-bet (and call the min-bets with any two cards or min-3bet etc.).
My key hand came around in the second blind level. Ten Ten on the Button. I raised 4x after a limper. The Big Blind (an English girl without a clue) min-reraist. The limper folded. The flop came Ten-Ace-Five rainbow. Boom! Flopped a set! Big Blind min-donks. I raise. Big Blind shoves. I call. My set of Tens is in good shape against her Ace Jack. Alas, the turn is a Queen and on the river a King rolls of… Her straight beats my set. Oh, well. Severely crippled, I tried to fold my way to a good spot. When there were 8 players left we all moved to one table. I guess you can call it 'The Final Table' but that is a big word for a small game in a quiet town. I dwindled down to 9 big blinds, found 88 utg and open-shoved. Got called by Ace Queen. Ace on the flop. Busto! The end.

Railbirded for a while but soon got bored and went to bed. To be honest, I don't care much about poker anymore these days. Although I'm still very much a fish in the life, I try to avoid filth and gave up on ever getting rich a while ago...

If you're interested in travel stories, a troubled love live, conversations with cows and the life on the road you can find my recent writings over at The Fishy Trail.

Good luck at the tables and thank you for visiting Filthy Rich Fish!

Leaving The Beach

I stayed on the beach for 25 days.
Returning to the place where I got married
to get over my divorce.
Didn’t sound like a solid idea at first.
But it was my best decision ever.

(Sweet, seedy Sihanoukville... ) For seven years I’ve been coming back to visit the family in law. This time, out here on my own, was far better than any holiday with them. So many people I met here over the years. So many friendly faces. Without family I got to know them all over again and meet many new ones in the process. Got more friends in Sihanoukville than anywhere else in the world. Here I feel at ease. Strong and confident, older and wiser (and yes, ofthen drunk and high too). Burning through the night, speeding on a Honda Dream, visiting a tropical island, stumbling into beautiful temples, ignoring traffic lights at all times, smoking joints everywhere and lingering on the beach with friends. There were no fights, no stress, no troubles, no anger. At most I got a bit annoyed with the languorous, inefficient way of life. But I learned to roll with it. After all, happiness has nothing to do with how much you can get done in one day. Happiness is all about with who you spend the day with.

(Twenty-five days of absolute smoothness)
My married live nothing but a distant memory.
Somewhere along the way I sort of forgot what it was I came here to get way from...

*

Yesterday I left town at the break of dawn.
Taking the bus up on Highway #4 for the final time.
Leaving the beach, back to Phnom Penh.

This time I got no expectations to ever come back here again.
This time I found what I was looking for.
Now I can go home and live happily ever after.
(making that same lame statement since 2003...)

(Final night in Sihanoukville, drinking heavily in a karaoke parlor)
Soeth, my motodop-driver friend, asks how long I’m going to stay in Belgium this time.
   "...I don't know... Probably a very long time, I'm not sure if I ever come..."
He bursts out in happy, drunken laughter
   "you will be back, my friend, maybe you don't know it yet
but you'll be back... soon... I know..." (fuck)

Yes, I found closure for my divorce troubles.
I had the holiday of a lifetime. I'm ready to play lots and lots of poker again.
But I despise the day job. I despise the cold and the grey and the emptiness back home.

I found this burning desire to live life at it’s fullest...
Don't want to slow down now. I'm just getting started.

(Back in Phnom Penh at a fancy hotel on Sisovath Quay...)
Last night I studied poker by watching DeucesCracked-videos and played a decent amount of Rush. Then I drained the mini-bar and worked my way through my last ganja. Alone, stoned and disoriented in the big city once again.

*

Today I sit at the riverside and wonder

So this was my final trip to Cambodia,
what’s next?

No Money No Honey

Only hours away from leaving Brussels.
The reasons are unclear.

(Fish Fact) It is how this cold and lonely winter ends.

(Brag) On the flip of a coin I booked a flight to Phnom Penh.

(Beat) A few days later my marriage was over.

(Variance) Lost my only real connection with Cambodia. No more family to visit. No one waiting for me.

(Fish Fact) But I never cancelled the ticket. Dreaming about a holiday in the sun is hard to give up.

(Breathing In)
Now I’m shit scared.
Like a vagabond, alone on the road again.
A lousy sequel to a story that’s already been told...
One last trip to Cambodia.
No fucking clue what to do when I get there.
Got no idea what is I'm searching for.
I don't really care all that much about money or love anymore.
I’m not looking for answers.
I don’t even know what the questions are.

(Breathing Out)
Might as well spent some time in the sun.
Leave the past out into the night.
Moving on and moving up.
Maybe I’ll spend my poker winnings on a posh seaside resort to read books and grind online poker. Maybe I’ll try to get lost in Phnom Penh nightlife or maybe I’ll make that final trip up river after all...

(Fish Fact) At best, a recipe for disaster. At worst, my best decision ever.

Fuck it. Final round.
It's time to go.

The Long Way Home

Someway Outta Here

Originally uploaded by VagabondBXL

Only a few days left...

I almost forgot all about that cold, dark city far, far away.

Alas, time to leave sweet Sihanoukville behind...

Filthy Rich Fish got a huge boost in visitor numbers over the past month.

Thanks to all of you for stopping by and reading my daily ramblings!

Running out of time

Running out of words

Nothing left but

The long way home...

Beating The Game

It’s been weeks since I have been stopped by traffic police while driving a moto-bike.
I guess I acquired the necessary skills.
Looking back, I was pretty much a noob during my first weeks in Sihanoukville.
Every time I saw traffic police I would slow down and steer my bike all the way to the right-hand side of the road. In Europe that makes perfect sense. When there’s police on the street, it's a good time to obey the law.
Out here it’s a whole different game, tough.
I have been a little fly going straight for the web of the spider...
So, from extended personal experience, here's my advice:
When you spot traffic police the trick is to move as far to the left-hand side of the road as possible and speed up. They will yell and maybe whistle but they will not chase you (it’s hot out here, especially in a police uniform). Do not make eye contact, do not slow down, look straight ahead and do not stop.
Alternatively, making a quick turn in a small side street or even going for the full U-turn are also very effective ways to avoid paying fines/bribes.
Stick to these simple rules and cruising around Sihanoukville on a moto will be smooth and hassle-free.
No rules, no helmet,
just full speed ahead...

Lazy Days In The Sun

It’s been a few days since I played online poker.
This morning I received a rakeback-payment on my PKR-account.
That almost had me going.
But I posted a few pictures on Flickr instead...
These are my last days in Sihanoukville. Time to just enjoy the sun and the sea...
After reading the ‘10000 Hours Rule’-chapter in the book Outliers (by Malcolm Gladwell), I’m no longer in a hurry. It states that to get really great in any kind of field there are always 10000 hours of practice required (Check the book for the details)
10000 hours of dedicated practice or settle for one lucky run (at best)...
I know what to choose but it’s going to be a long, long ride... So better start of with a few days of fun and sun. Soon enough I’ll be back in Belgium with not much else to do... (nothing ever changes)
Maybe I start with Sit ‘n Go’s again or I’ll continue my Rush Poker adventures. Six tabling on my desktop computer must be lots of (profitable) action-packed fun...
(but not just yet)
Next week I’ll get back into action.
Every 10000 hours of practice has to start somewhere.
Mine will start in cold, cold Belgium.
Now I'll just take my moto for a spin, have a few beers and go for a swim in the ocean before watching the sunset...

Down The River (To The Sea)

It would be kind of sad to only play Rush Poker out here.
So we went daytripping...
Took the old Toyota Corolla out on Highway #4 to the National Park again. This time for more than just a fresh sea food lunch. My sister-in-law is in the know about dudes with boats. So we got this boat trip going. Down the river in a small, small traditional Khmer fishing boat. Passed mangroves and swamps, birds and fishing people all the way to the sea. We tried to spot dolphins there... I only saw water move (probably waves) but my wife insisted it was the real deal... Whatever, the only dolphin I’ve ever seen is the one on top of the Dolphin Shack, on Occheuteal Beach, where they serve cheap nasty ‘Vodka & Redbull’-buckets ‘till sunrise. Anyway, never mind that place. Today it’s all about the great outdoors. Wildlife doesn’t do much for me. But I’m a big sucker for sandy white beaches. That was the next stop. Fresh sea food lunch, after all, but at a beautiful, empty beach.
My kind of place
Angkor beer and fish barbecue, the perfect cure for too much poker.
Although I have to admit; I secretly listened to the Two Plus Two Pokercast on my iPod while the rest of us were sleeping away the afternoon heat... White sand between my toes, the ocean in front of me and talk about cards, flops and pot odds in my ears...
Late afternoon, we did a little bit of walking trough the jungle back to our little boat. Going back upriver while listening the Dylan’s ‘Highway 61 Revisted’...
Out of the boat and into the car.
Rolling into town 'round sunset.
Heavily sunburned and tired as hell.
This day in the outdoors washed away all of the Phnom Penh craziness...
My sleep troubles are solved, slept like a baby all night long.
Waking up early the next day,
feeling clean and fresh.
Starting up Full Tilt, all happy and confident.
But still losing at Rush Poker.
Losing money, losing happiness.
Lost 3 buy-ins in an hour...
Maybe I should forget about poker while I’m still here.
Just enjoy my days in the sunshine.
Let’s say another 1000 hands and I’ll quit...
(one thousand hands or maybe a few more)

Tangled Up In Rush Jittery

Leaving Phnom Penh, my mind started wondering.
My days in the sun are numbered.
Passed the half way point a while ago.
I need a plan.
I need to clean up my act.
Things need to change.
Fucking tired of how I live my life in Belgium.
Last night I had wild thoughts of cashing out my entire poker bankroll to stay high at Top Banana Guesthouse for a year or so. Sadly, I’m less drunk now and in need of a more serious plan.
Still, can’t see any other happy options besides poker.
If I could just get better, study more, play more hours, stay focused longer,...
Winning a major tournament, relocating to Phnom Penh and grind out my daily expenses in 6-max cash games... That’s the best possible scheme I could come up with.... But even I know, while driving out of Phnom Penh (somewhere between drunk and hangover), the odds are heavily against this silly daydream.
Nevertheless, I did the math. Getting bronze status in the Full Tilt Iron Man Challenge should be achievable this month (for the sixteenth month in a row!). I need some results. I need them now. January was horrible for my bankroll. But now there’s Rush Poker. Maybe the Rush will turn it all around...

Back in Sihanoukville;
Three hours and 1500 hands have passed...
I’m down 1,5 buy-ins.
Left my ability to sleep somewhere in Phnom Penh.... (who needs sleep when there’s Rush Poker, anyway) So I hang out on the beach all day, watch the ‘Flight of the Conchords’ on DVD (brilliant HBO-series) ‘till 4 o’clock in the morning and start playing Rush Poker around 8h30.
Now all I need to do is win - win - win... make profit...
seal the deal and lock up my ticket to a lifetime in the sun.
Once logged in, the tendency is to play as long as possible.
Full Tilt Happy Hours come and go.
When I close my eyes I see nothing but cards flashing by.
When I open my eyes 3 tables of Rush Poker scream for attention.
Can’t stop clicking... quick fold, quick fold, quick fold, raise, 3bet, fold, fold, raise, quick fold, raise, c-bet, got my Aces cracked, rebuy, quick fold, quick fold, raise, raise, bet, fold... My wife enters and leaves the room. Raise, c-bet, quick fold, quick, fold, raise, 3bet,... I’m staying right here. Raise, raise, quick fold, 3bet, raise, raise, quick fold, quick fold,... Keep the curtains closed and the fan at full speed. Fold, fold, raise, fold, raise, c-bet, quick fold, 3bet,... Trying to move the cursor around as quick as possible. Quick fold, raise, raise, fold,... It’s hard on this laptop with only a trackpad. Raise, c-bet, quick fold,... Still I manage. Quick fold, quick fold, raise, c-bet, quick fold,... Cannot stop. Raise, raise, quick fold,... At least another 1000 hands to go. Maybe more. Quick fold, quick fold, bet, bet, raise, fold, 3bet, fold, fold, raise, c-bet,...

All I need
a little bit of dope,
strong coffee and
a trillion hands of Rush Poker

I’m still here
but I wish I was back already


Play Online Poker

Just Cruisin'

Like every serious poker player, there’s always the urge to raise the stakes.
After all my moto-bike adventures it was time for something bigger.

So I borrowed the old Toyota Corolla from my sister-in-law, loaded it up with family members and took it out on Highway #4, past the airstrip and all the way to Ream National Park.

The first few moments where a bit scary.
Living in Brussels, I never drove more far than Amsterdam (once).
Driving a car here in Sihanoukville, Cambodia felt like a challenge.
But it turned out pretty straightforward and cool.
Driving = driving.
Like everything else,
here it’s a lot more fun than at home.
'Same Same But Different' (and better)

Speeding on the highway,
just cruising along the coast and over the hills...

Stopping for lunch at the National Park,
eating fresh sea food,
chilling in a hammock,
beautiful views of the blue, blue sea....

Later on
zooming back into town,
honking and swaying trough traffic like a regular.

No stress, no traffic jams.
Being so cool
driving my car

Just cruisin’
It's all good

Not Today, Mr. Officer!

Same old, same old...
Driving down Ekareach Street, late afternoon, when a Sihanoukville police officers appears out of nowhere and forces me to stop.

No no no, not again!

I consider ignoring him for a moment.
Maybe if I just keep driving everything will be alright...
But it feels a bit dicey to really put this into practice.
So I obey the law, once again.
Stopping at the side of the road, slowly taking of my helmet and getting ready to hear which outrageous traffic law I broke today...

Then, out of the blue, a second moto-bike appears.
It comes to a stop next to the police officer.
My lucky day!
My wife and sister-in-law arrive on the scene!
It only take a few blurts in Khmer from them before the police officer reluctantly but quietly retreats on the sidewalk...

I’m free to go, no bribe paid!
Fuck you, Mr. Officer!
Don’t mess with me or you’ll get my family on your back!

Traffic Police Vs. Vagabond: 2 - 1

Police On My Back

There must be a picture of me out there in the Sihanoukville police station with big, fat $$$-signs under it.

So here we go again...

Cruising down Ekerach Street on my moto-bike, late afternoon. I spot traffic police so I come to a full stop in front of a red light. Get yelled and honked at by locals. Stopping in the middle of the road is simply not done. Never mind the traffic lights.

When the light changes to green I continue my way,
only to find a police officer forcing me to stop. This time they charge me for two offenses:

* My lights are switched on during the daytime ($1)
* I don’t have rearview mirrors ($1)

What a fucking joke!

Sadly, these dudes are not open for any kind of negotiations.
So I reluctantly pay the fine/bribe and continue my way, ignoring the next traffic lights without even realizing it. Those bastards are probably already waiting for me after the next bend in the road....

The first time was sort of funny, now I feel like a fish.
"Barang with pink helmet = $$$"
Time to get my game-plan together and stay out of their greedy hands!
(luckily they are dirt cheap)

Serendipity Now

I’ve been here a week now.
Mellow, lazy, chilled out, ...
Getting into that good old Sihanoukville-groove again.
It started out great with a few days with the family-in-law,
then we moved to a crappy guesthouse close to Occheuteal Beach.
Suffered from a serious case of Oriental Paranoia over there...
(It’s the same as ordinary paranoia but much, much worse)
Only myself to blame for that...
When I go for a run in Brussels I’ll often check and measure my route in Google Earth.
When I come to Cambodia I consider myself way to cool to use any kind of guidebook.
Only sissy’s walk around with a Lonely Planet.
Go with the flow, dude!
So when this guy at the shitty guesthouse spoke the magic words ‘Free Wifi’ my eyes went all shiny and I got myself a room. Turned out it was just a hot, dark, smelly box that never got cleaned. The shower produced water a pure random intervals. The WiFi was free but slow, slow, sloooowwwww.
This morning I found an old condom-wrap under the bed.
Tipping point reached. Get out. Fast.
Packed my suitcase and moved to a more classy place on Serendipity Road.
A spacious rooftop room with a view... I can even see the sea if I cross the terrace and turn my head to the left... So now I just walked out and onto the beach when I saw the sign
‘High Speed Internet: $1/hour’...
An offer to good to ignore...
This is the good life;
 typing on my MacBook, drinking a fresh coconut-shake and when I look up there’s the great blue ocean right in front of me.
Serendipity now!

Sihanoukville Rush

It’s been a week since my last hand of online poker...
Time to get back in action.
I decided to give the new Rush Poker on Full Tilt a try.
It’s cool!
Even just playing one table goes very, very fast.
I played very loose-aggresive because... well, this is Cambodia after all and I was craving for action after my break from the game.
On a tiny sample size of about 100 hands, 6-max, $0.10/$0.25 it worked out great. Made about 12 bucks and had lot’s of fun. Sadly, the internet is quite unreliable here so I think I’ll leave it at that for today.
Can quite decide if I’ll drive my moto-bike around the coast or have a swim in the ocean...
Just another lazy day in a laid-back beach town

48 Hours in Cambodia

At Phnom Penh International Airport there was a party of 12 (twelve!) people there to welcome me.
Didn’t see that many people in over a month...
Certainly not for me.
But there they are; all smiles, taking a day off to spend 8 hours in a mini-bus just to welcome me...
Very, very Ev- for them
(if someone would ask my opinion)
No one does.
Family has a different meaning here.
(as opposed to no meaning at all where I come from)
I don’t understand it.
I handle interest in my persona pretty poorly.
Luckily, there’s the jet lag to blame.
Jet lag and going with the flow.

Welcome to Cambodia!

So enter the minibus and into Phnom Penh traffic.
First stop: a wholesale flower market
(no questions, just roll with it).
Standing there in my winter clothes, staring at the afternoon traffic under the tropical sky/
getting stared at by the locals...
Next stop: street side food-stalls... strange meat on a stick, beer with ice and lots of smiley, happy faces... Reaching pass out-time, stumbling back in the van... Hitting the road to Sihanoukville...
Sleep makes me blissfuly unaware of the 4 hour drive.
Arriving at my sister-in-law’s.
More happy, smiley faces.
We need drinks.
No problem, you drive.
So here I am, fresh of the plane driving a pink Honda Dream trough the Cambodian night.
Trying to find the right trade off between top speeds (to discourage getting robbed) and prudence (to avoid crashing on these bad roads)...
It’s a tricky balancing act but I manage.

Later there’s sleep.
Long, long sleep.
Sleep beyond jet lag.
Waking up late afternoon.
Cruising ‘round town on a rented moto-bike ‘till dark.
Party time!
Hitting a Cambodian beach bar together with Khmer friends..
Cold beer and goofy dans moves.
Moving to a high-end night club.
Cold, cold aircon and loud, loud music.
More dancing, more beers
Lots of fun.
One of my Khmer companions stumbles into someone else.
...stumbles into a rich dude.
Problem.
No good.
48 hours in Cambodia,
dragging my drunk friend out of nightclub to avoid getting our asses kicked...

It sure is adventurous out here!

Bangkok Sunrise

Arrived in Bangkok at the break of day.
Finally escaped the Belgium winter.
Made my way back out here,
into the big wide world....
This is where I’m alive.
This is my place and time.
It felt great to leave Belgian soil behind.
Never shed a single tear for leaving my country. Never will.
Transit in Abu Dhabi, another six hour flight to Bangkok.
No sleep. Great tunes on my iPod.
Overwhelmed with sheer joy and happiness when landing at Bangkok International Airport.
Back in the East.
Fuck, still only in Bangkok. Still only in transit.
But it feels better than any drug could possibly deliver.
Drunk of happiness instead of happy being drunk.
The Far East is where I belong.
Sitting at home, wondering if this whole trip was a good idea
feels silly and plain stupid...
And I haven’t even arrived yet.
Just a few more hours before I’ll board one more plane.
Final destination:
that magical,
marginal,
mellow capital
at the Mekong-river banks...

Phnom Penh

Finally/ again/ at last

Phnom Penh
Almost there...

Singing of,
(all future blog-posts are indefinitely suspended)

A Fish In Water